We initially headed to Clapham to try the much-praised Counter Culture, but were advised that the restaurant had little to satisfy our plant-forward preferences. We appreciated the staff’s honesty and took their advice to sample sister restaurant and next door neighbour, The Dairy. Since these siblings share a kitchen, The Dairy promised to give us the special dining experience we were after. Delighted to find a vegetarian tasting menu on offer, we gave it a whirl. Good snacks to begin, and a few dishes later came a really good braised leek dish with molasses. Overall, the wine was more memorable than the food.