A neighborhood restaurant that seems more like a late night wine bar, but with a modern-American inspired menu. Yes, we were confused as well. It’s got all the Shoreditch appeal you could ask for – a single page A5 printed menu, small sharing plates, a good wine list and unassuming laid back decor. Two Lights is the third restaurant from the Clove Club crew behind the much loved Michelin starred restaurant just around the corner as well as Luca, the Art deco Italian oasis in Clerkenwell. At the helm is Chase Lovecky, a young chef who seems to have the relevant background (having worked at both Momofuku and Clove Club) and seemingly the skill to execute decent plant-based food. But enough about the restaurant, more about the food…
On a whole, the vegetarian offering is quite limited and vegan options are non-existent. We had a salad of endive, fennel, blood orange & (very little) burrata (£9.25) and a salt baked celeriac dish with mushrooms and citrus topped with an egg (priced steeply £18.50), both of which were pleasant, but lacking in flavour as well as being under seasoned. The hero of the celeriac dish was the egg (sorry vegan chums), but we were a bit baffled by the way the egg had been prepared. Plate sizes were small, so it was a good thing that we weren’t overly hungry.
We do like the concept of letting simply prepared, beautiful ingredients speak for themselves, but the dishes we ate, sadly didn’t seem to have much to say.
We say don’t rush. Two Lights might be a good weekend pit stop with 2 or 3 friends for a glass of wine and a bite, but expect to pay top dollar and don’t expect to be fully fed.